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Each end of your 1×3 inch (2.54×7.62 cm) board should be cut at a 45 degree angle.

Read the instruction manual for your miter saw and remember to keep your hands away from the blade.

Wear goggles and a face mask when cutting wood.

This board will act as a pattern that will help you build the rest of your shelves.[2]

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Measure the bottom of the shelf on a 1/4-inch (0.63 cm) plywood. Repeat the process that you just did, but this time on a thinner, 1/4-inch (0.63 cm), piece of plywood. Lay the 1×3 inch (2.54×7.62 cm) board that you cut previously over this piece of plywood and use a pencil to draw a straight line to create a triangle. This piece of wood will act as the bottom of your shelf.

Make straight cuts through the lines you drew on the plywood. Cut each piece of your plywood with a circular saw. Each of these pieces of plywood should be equal in size because you used the same piece of 1×3 inch (2.54×7.62 cm) board as a stencil to draw your cutting line.

Doing this will give you the exact dimensions of your frame without having to re-measure.

Cut the lines that you created. Cut the 45-degree angles to create the frame for your shelves on the 1×2-inch (2.54x 5.08 cm) piece of wood. This piece of wood will be the front of your frame.

Line up the two boards to create the tip of the frame. Take the excess board that you cut away from your 1×2-inch (2.54x 5.08 cm) board and line it up on the 45-degree angle of your freshly cut board. The boards should fit together flush on a the 45 degree angle that you cut. It should look like two sides of a triangle.

Cut the last piece of wood to create the last piece of your frame. Using the circular saw again, cut the line that you just created on the 1×2-inch (2.54x 5.08 cm) piece of excess wood. This cut will be a straight line, at the bottom of the triangle, rather than a 45-degree angle.

Cutting the last part of the frame 3/4 of an inch (1.905 cm) shorter will allow all pieces of your frame to line up.

Assemble your frame. Line up the three sides of your frame and drive nails into all three corners of the frame. The nail should be driven through two sides of the triangle each time. Make sure that the nails connect each piece of the wooden frame together, securely.

If there are studs near the corner of your wall, drive the nails into them instead of the sheetrock.

Use wall anchors and screws to better support your corner shelf if you are using more weight.

Nail or staple the top and bottom of the shelf to the frame. Take the triangular pieces of plywood that you cut previously and set the thicker piece on top of the shelf. Drive nails or screws into the surface of the plywood and into your wooden frame to secure the top of the corner shelf to the frame. Your project is now complete and you can use your corner shelves to store things.

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How To Build A Box Trap: 13 Steps (With Pictures)

Acquire the tools and materials necessary to make the box. The items are: a hammer, small box of 8 penny (1 and ½ inch galvanized) nails, one 10 foot long pine (1 inch x 8 inch) wood plank, circular saw, jig saw, safety goggles, tape measure, pencil, speed or “T” square, drill, 1 inch paddle bit, wire (old phone cord would work), a wooden dowel (approximately broom handle width) 3 feet in length (long enough for a 18 inch and 11 inch sections), bait can, and some form of bait.

Cut the materials to size. Using the circular saw, cut the 1 x 8 pine plank into: three lengths of 2 feet (bottom and side boards), 1 length of 22 inches (top board), one length of 9 inches (back board), one length of 10 inches (door board), four lengths of 1 inch (rail boards), and one length of 2 inches (fulcrum board).

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Attach the rails to create a channel for the door. Using two of the three two foot lengths, attach the rails (four 1 inch length) to the front of the side pieces. This is done by first nailing the 1 inch length flush with the end of the side board but raised ¾ inches above the top, use at least two nails per rail. The second rail is spaced 1 inch from the initial rail and runs parallel to it. Using a speed-square will assist with correct spacing. Unlike the initial rail this second one will be flush with the top and bottom of the side board. The channel formed by the rails must have consistent one inch spacing to ensure the door slides properly. This should be repeated on the other side board.

Nail the side boards to the bottom board. Lay the bottom board on its side so that the underneath portion of the board is facing the assembler. Lay the right side board, with rails facing up, parallel to the top/inside of the bottom board. The ends of the bottom and side board should be flush with one another. Nail the two boards together, making sure to drive no less than four nails through the bottom board into the right side board. Now, the left side board can be attached to the bottom. This is done by rotating the partial assembly 180 degrees. With the underneath portion of the bottom board still facing the assembler, lay the left side board, with the rails facing up, parallel to the bottom board. Make sure the rails of both sides are facing one another at the front of the trap and that the side and bottom form a 90 degree angle. Note that the ends of the side of the end of the side and bottom boards should be flush.

Attach the back board. Place the back end of the trap toward the assembler. Position the 9 inch length so that it is flush with the bottom and side boards, but uneven with the top leaving it ¾ inches above the top of the side boards. This will allow the top board to be flush with the back board once it is attached. Drive the nails through the back board into the edge of the side and bottom boards, using no less than two nails for each of the three boards.

Prepare the top board. Place the 22 inch length top so that a hole, using the one inch paddle bit, can be drilled 4 ½ inches from the rear and three and ¾ inches from the side of the board. After drilling the hole, make sure the edges of the hole are smooth. A “V” shape notch is removed (cut) from the end of the fulcrum board by the jig saw. Then nail the non-notched end of the fulcrum board 10 ½ inches from the front of the top board; making sure that it is equal distance from each side and that the “V” notch is visible from the front and back of the top board.

Attach the top board to the assembly. Place the top board on the assembly, making sure it is butted up against the back board and flush to the sides prior to attaching it. The hole in the top board will be closer to the back of the trap and the fulcrum is extended up. Then nail through the top board into the edges side boards, four nails for each of the sides. Two nails will then be driven through the back board into the edge of the top board.

Prepare and place the door. Using the 1 inch paddle bit, drill a partial hole 1 ½ inch from the top of the door (ten inch length), making sure the center is equal distance from each of the sides. The depth of the partial hole should be approximately ½ inch and should not completely penetrate the board. With the partially drilled hole facing inward slide the door into the rail channels, making sure the door smoothly slides up and down.

Prepare the trigger dowel. Drill a hole, 1inch from the end of the trigger dowel, using an 1/8 inch bit; making sure the hole is equal distance from each side. Place one of the two wires through the hole and knot is on one end. A notch that goes halfway through the trigger dowel is cut 5 inches from the bait end and continues 2 inches toward the lever end. Make sure that the notch can catch onto the underside of the top board, but will easily be tripped.

Prepare the lever dowel. Drill a hole, using an 1/8 inch bit, 1 inch from the end of the lever dowel. Place the wire, previously run through the trigger dowel, through the lever dowel hole and knot the wire so the trigger and lever are closely connected; making sure the ends of the two dowels do not bind.

Set the trap. A can containing bait is placed in the trap, directly beneath the trigger dowel hole. The trigger dowel is slid through the hole in the top of trap with the notch facing the front of the trap. The lever dowel is placed on the fulcrum notch and the end of the dowel is inserted into the door notch while the door is in the open position. At the same time, the notch of the trigger dowel must catch the underside of the top of trap. The trap is now ready to be used.

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How To Play Golf (With Pictures)

Article Summary

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Golf is a fun hobby and competitive sport where players try to hit their golf ball into different holes along a golf course in as few shots as possible. A standard golf course has 18 holes, although there are shorter 9-hole courses for beginners. Players start the game at the first hole on the course and move through all of the holes in order. At the beginning of each hole is a “tee off” area where players take their first shot for that hole. The smooth, short grass around the hole is called the “putting green,” and the grass between the tee off area and the putting green is called the “fairway.” On a player’s turn, they place their ball on a tee in the ground at the tee off area, choose a club to swing with, and use the club to hit the ball toward the hole. Once everyone in the group has taken their first shot, each player locates their golf ball and takes another turn, starting with the player who is furthest away from the hole. This continues until every player has made their golf ball in the hole, at which point the group moves onto the next hole and repeats the process. Players write down their score after each hole, with each stroke, or swing, they took for that hole counting as 1 point. For example, if it took a player 4 strokes to get their golf ball into the hole, they would score 4 points for that hole. Each hole on a golf course has an ideal number of strokes it should take to get the ball into the hole, called the “par.” A par 3 hole should ideally take 3 strokes to finish, for example. Finishing a hole 2 strokes under par is called an “eagle,” finishing one stroke under par is called a “birdie,” and finishing even with par is just called “par.” Finishing one stroke over par is called a “Bogey,” finishing two strokes over par is called a “Double Bogey,” and so on. The player with the lowest score after finishing all of the holes on the course wins the game. Players are allowed to carry multiple golf clubs with them on the course, and they choose which club they want to use depending on the shot they’re taking. Each type of golf club affects the height and distance the ball travels differently. The main types of golf clubs include woods, which are used to hit the ball long distances with minimal loft and are commonly used to hit the ball off of the tee or when it’s on the fairway; irons, which are used when the ball is less than 200 yards from the putting green and are numbered 1 through 9, with 9 having the most loft and 1 having the least; wedges, which have a high degree of loft and are used to hit the ball a short distance onto the putting green; and putters, which are used to roll the ball on the putting green toward the hole. To swing with a golf club, stand facing the ball with your feet hip-width apart, your knees slightly bent, and the head of the club next to your golf ball. Swing the club back and up behind you so it’s almost 180 degrees, then swing back down and make contact with the ball. Follow through on your swing by fully extending both of your arms. If you want to practice your swing before heading out on the golf course, visit a driving range, where you can practice hitting golf balls with different clubs until you get the hang of it. Keep reading to learn about the equipment you’ll need, like golf gloves and tees!

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How To Trap A Beaver (With Pictures)

Find a suitable trap location. The ideal place to set a body grip is in an area you know the beaver will pass through. You’ll probably want to set your trap at the entrance to a beaver lodge, in a narrow, shallow canal near a dam or lodge, or along a well-defined beaver path. Alternatively, you may want to set your trap so that the beaver must pass through it to reach bait (usually castor scent) that you’ve set.

When you lay the trap down, look for two springs – one on each side of the central “square”. If the two wing-like springs are pointing to the inside of the trap, turn the springs to the outside of the trap so that the rounded end of each points away from the central “square” jaws.

These long metal tools allow you to set the trap while keeping your hands and fingers free, so as to avoid the risk of injury. Whether or not you use these setting tongs, take one spring and compress it, aligning the spring over the trap’s central joint.

When the spring is compressed, set the safety catch. This is usually a small hook attached to the spring itself, which keeps the spring compressed while you complete the rest of the steps necessary to set the trap.

Warning – once one spring is compressed, you should consider the trap “live”, as its jaws can now snap together with force if it’s sprung. Whether you’re using setting tongs or not, use caution when handling the trap from this point forward.

Compress and “hook” the other spring. Though some only use one spring, most common body grip traps employ two springs to give the jaws added power. If your trap has two springs, compress the second spring as you did the first and latch it shut with the safety hook. When both springs are compressed, carefully align them over the trap’s central joints.

The dog is a toothed or notched piece that secures the trap’s jaws together when it’s set. Essentially, it holds the trap open until it’s sprung.

The trigger is a thin, whisker-like piece that’s used to spring the trap. The whisker hangs down between the jaws. When a beaver walks through the trap, it pushes on the trigger, releasing the dog and causing the jaws to swing shut.

Set the dog and trigger. Carefully compress the trap jaws. Set the trigger in the desired notch of the dog, then insert the trap’s forward jaw in this notch. Carefully cease compressing the jaws – the dog should delicately hold the trap open.

Remove the safety hooks from the springs. Ever-so-carefully remove each spring’s safety hook and slide them towards the coiled end of the springs. Your trap is now set and should be considered dangerous. Don’t move or handle it without carefully resetting the safety hooks, and even then, only do so if necessary.

If necessary, use stakes for support. Most body grip traps can be set independent of any external supports, but, to keep your trap secure, you may want to use such supports anyway. Secure a trap by the circular, coiled ends of its springs – never by the square jaws. Either loop wire through each coil and tie the wire to a nearby object or drive a thin, sturdy stake through each coil. In either case, do so before setting your trap to minimize the chance of injury.

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How To Be A Hippie (With Pictures)

Listen to Jimi Hendrix and his inimitable rendition of Star Spangled Banner, Joe Cocker getting by with a little help from his friends, and the ever-popular Fish Cheer from Country Joe and the Fish.

For a truly authentic Woodstock experience, listen to it in the rain. In the mud. Naked, with friends.

While Woodstock has some of the best acts and most memorable songs of the sixties, don’t neglect other music of the era as you build your hippie cred. (Actually, hippies never used the word “cred.”) Groove to some of these other great artist that tapped the toes of the Biggest Generation:

Bob Dylan. There’s a dichotomy here, one you must resolve for yourself. Do you go with Acoustic Bob, or Electric Bob? Either way, Mr. Dylan is one of the key ingredients in any hippie repertoire.

The Beatles. Especially during their psychedelic period, when they’d moved from “She Loves You (Yeah, Yeah, Yeah)” to “Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds.”

Jefferson Airplane. Before the watered-down, glitzed-up popsters that were Jefferson Starship, Jefferson Airplane took us down a rabbit hole, and gave us somebody to love.

While there are far too many excellent hippie bands to list individually, you must become familiar with Crosby, Stills, and Nash (with and without Neil Young); Joni Mitchell; Judy Collins; Sly and the Family Stone; The Doors; Donovan; The Who; The Stones; The Byrds; Buffalo Springfield, and, arguably, Frank Zappa.

Play it forward. The music then was exactly what a generation needed. But time marches on, and there is awesome music being produced today that fits the ethos of peace, love, and understanding. Enjoy it. Being a hippie is all about openness and embracing what’s good. As long as you can dance to it.

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Learn how many of these people got together, what their general morals and beliefs were, and where they came from.

So much of the history of hippie subculture can be found on the internet today; possibly more than any other subculture. You can gain much insight into the Hippie subculture from watching the original Woodstock movie, “Celebration at Big Sur”, “Monterey Pop”, and so on. These are shown on Sundance and the Independent Film Channel, or you might be able to rent them from Netflix.

Don’t just glue yourself to the History Channel (like wow, how to make a hippie feel old, man!). Read the words of the poets and authors and other cultural touchstones that defined hippiedom:

Electric Kool Aid Acid Test by Tom Wolfe about Ken Kesey and his Merry Pranksters is required reading, and when you’re done, you will know if you’re on the bus, or off the bus.

Learn to howl, and read the poetry of Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac. While they themselves preceded the hippie culture, their works sparked the creative spirit in such icons as Hunter S. Thompson, and Bob Dylan (among many others).

Don’t forget to laugh at the comics, and yourself. One of the greatest comedians to come from that era was the guy who gave us the “hippie dippy weatherman with your hippie dippy weather, man.”: George Carlin. Unlike many hippies of the era, Mr. Carlin stuck to his beliefs throughout his life.

Hippies have new ideas on different topics that deal with the changing times. The hippie generation forming today is doing living by many of the same ideals that formed then, but the Vietnam war is over, and Martin Luther King, Jr., was more or less victorious in his struggle for civil rights.

Ask your parents what it was like while growing up in those days. You may be surprised—and, at turns, appalled—learning about your parent’s bag was. They might surprise you, as they were once young and wild, too, and experienced many of the same things you are experiencing today, including love, war, a divided country, and a persistent existential threat.

Do volunteer work and learn about barter. Hippies in the 60s believed in trade or barter rather than money.

1-A, closely related to Draft Card: This would determine whether you would have to go to Vietnam, unless you could get into the National Guard (hard), get CO status (harder), or move to Canada.

Babe, baby, chick, old lady: These were affectionate terms for women and wives or girlfriends.

Bag: Your thing. What you were or weren’t into. “Like wow, you know, needlepoint just isn’t my bag.”

Blow your mind: Be really impressed by something almost unbelievable. “Man, it blows my mind that your old lady used to be my wife!”

Bogart: Not sharing a joint.

Bummer: A very bad thing. “Oh, bummer, man. I’m out of bread.”

Bread: Money

Cat: A hip hippie.

Cop out: Bagging responsibility and taking the easy way out. “He loves the war, but joined the National Guard. What a cop out.”

Dig: To grok; to understand, or to like. “I like really dig Sgt. Pepper, man, you dig?

Your thing. What you do. Your bag. You dig?

Far out: Like totally cool.

Gone: Really, really far out.

Flashback: An unexpected replay of a drug experience, without the drugs.

Freak flag: Long hair.

Fuzz: Police. Also, pigs, cops, and “the man.”

Grok: To dig. Coined by Robert Heinlein in Strangers in a Strange Land.

Grooving: really enjoying something. “Man, I’m grooving on these new tunes by Dylan”

Groovy: Very cool. It’s a good thing.

Head: Somebody who enjoys drugs.

High: What a head usually is.

If it feels good, do it; Make love, not war; Give peace chance; : Hippie mantras

Joint: A marijuana cigarette.

Killer: Really good. “That was some killer weed in that joint. Acapulco gold?”

Rap: To converse.

Split: To leave. “Man, it’s been great rapping with you, but I gotta split now, gotta get ready for my gig at the Fillmore.”

Wow: An expression that shows excitement. “Wow, man, bummer you have to leave. Me and my old lady have some killer weed that will really blow your mind, you dig?”

Wear clothes made of natural materials, especially hemp. Hemp is the plant that releases the most pollution-preventing oxygen. Colorful ponchos and the Baja Jacket are a great hippie clothing staples, too.

Look into second-hand stores, thrift shops, garage sales, and making your own clothes and jewelry.

Hippies are known for their tie-dye attire, Native American jewelry, peasant skirts, and bell bottom pants. Men grew out their hair and facial hair, such as goatees and mustaches.

Women usually went places without a bra and no makeup. The image of the barefoot hippie is real, but they also wore sandals, soft boots or moccasins, even tennis shoes. Hippies were not immune to the weather.

Some staple items to create a modern hippie style include tiered, floral maxi dresses and short flowy shift dresses.[5]

High-waisted flare jeans and loose, blousy tops are a part of this style.[6]

Besides this, you can wear brown suede boots, hats, and fashion scarves to dress like a hippie.[7]

Most hippies think that drug prohibition hurts more than drug use. Google LEAP (Law Enforcement Against Prohibition), or NORML (National Organization for the Reform of Marijuana Laws).

Let your freak flag fly. Grow your hair and go to the hair salon as little as possible. Keep clean, but use natural soaps and deodorants and herbal products. Dr. Bronner’s has long been a favorite maker of cleansing products for hippies. Make your own, if possible. Dreadlocks are a popular hippie hair-do too.

One can only wonder what would have become of bands like The Beatles or The Grateful Dead without their experimenting with hallucinogens.

Given that, you don’t have to take drugs to be a hippie! Remember, many hippies—Frank Zappa, notably—avoided drugs and preferred the “natural high”, which they sought through meditation, listening to music, colored lights, dancing, backpacking, and other healthy activities. Also, recreational drug use (barring alcohol) is illegal in many countries, so do be careful.

Today’s organic foods, free-range and health food stores are a legacy of the hippie movement; you might find hippies at your local one.

Going Vegan is also a good alternative if you believe that animal’s lives should be well respected. This includes taking cow’s milk (a cow’s milk is best for its young child), Bee’s honey, (they create it themselves, therefore it’s a by product of an animal), and eggs (in the case of chickens, they are basically a “period” of a chicken; an unfertilized egg doesn’t turn into anything, but fertilized by a rooster, it turns into a chick) out of your diet.

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How To Make Book Earrings (With Pictures)

Cut out your pages. Cut sixteen rectangles of ordinary printer paper, measuring 7/8″ (22mm) long by 1.5″ (3.8cm) wide. If you have access to a paper cutter it will help make the pages even, as will stacking or folding the paper before cutting. (Don’t stack too thickly, though, or you’ll have trouble cutting. Two stacks of eight layers each seem to cut reasonably easily, and it doesn’t matter if the pages for one book are slightly different from the other.)

Punch out holes for binding. Line up the centers of the pages with the centers of the cover cardboard. Lay the book open flat with the cover side down on a cutting mat or a spare chunk of scrap cardboard. Use a push pin to poke three holes in the spine, through the center of the pages. Do this for both books.

Cut out your cover. Cut two rectangles of the decorative fabric or paper, 3.25″ (8.25cm) wide by 2″ (5cm) long. If there is a pattern or grain to the fabric or paper, check to make sure that your rectangles run parallel to it. These will become the covers of your books.

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Cut out the corners as shown. Cut at a shallow angle from the corners of the score marks to the edge. The exact angle is not important, but try to get it reasonably symmetrical.

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Center the book on the cover and cut V-shaped notches as shown around where the spine will be.

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Score the decorative material on either side of the spine if you are using paper. The photo shows the cover ready to glue.

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Apply a generous (but not sloppy) amount of glue to the center of the decorative material and to the top and bottom flaps. Make sure to put the

It helps to put a piece of scrap paper behind as you apply the glue, to catch any that runs over the edges.

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Place the book onto the decorative material and press it firmly against the back, making sure the edges line up with the score marks. Fold the top flaps over and press them firmly. Repeat for the bottom flaps.

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Apply glue to the side flaps and fold them in, over the top and bottom flaps. Press firmly.

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Thread a string between the top portion of binding and the cardboard you used as the basis for your cover.

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Tie a simple knot in the string. Pull it close to the book, then tighten it firmly.

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Turn the knot downward and trim off the excess string.

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Open the ring on the earring mount, thread it through the loop on the book, and close it again. Use needle-nose pliers or jewelry pliers without teeth. Insert the earring mounts so that the books will both point forward when the earrings are worn.

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Let the glue dry thoroughly before trying on the earrings. Rest a heavy book on top of them to hold them closed while the glue dries.

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